Quality over quantity! All of my breeding programs are small scale. I have cut back my rattery size and will be focusing on not only breeding for temperament, but also ensuring proper socialization. Both make for balanced rats ready for loving pet homes. Read below!
I have recently changed my approach! Please read.
Temperament & Socialization
I select for genetic temperament since temperament is highly hereditary. This is well documented and I have witnessed it heavily firsthand. Breeding for temperament is one of my main goals within bloodlines who need work in that area. Socialization shouldn't be NECESSARY (to prevent biting), but it does help build early confidence and allows for rats to adjust faster in a new home. Socialized rats are overall more balanced than rats who are not handled in their young age. For this reason, in my rattery rats from established lines will be socialized. This can consist of moving the babies into my main living space, handling often, allowing them to experience the sounds of a home, hearing a vacuum, dogs barking, etc. For lines less established, I do not socialize. At the moment, my less established lines are the fawn rex line, the beige hooded line, and the marten line primarily. Depending on what I expect of a litter, I may or may not bring them in for socialization. The reason why I do not socialize less established bloodlines is because it allows me to better select for natural genetic temperament. Socialization can mask genetic temperament making it harder to improve a bloodline that needs work. When selecting for temperament, I look for curiousness, confidence, baby nibbles (a good thing!), being relaxed when handled, friendliness, good scruff with ideally a perfect or good tuck, willingness to eat from my hand, and even the tendency to like water. Rats from litters who are not socialized will likely take longer to settle in (about 2-3 weeks). Socialized babies should settle in with speed (1-8 days). If you only want socialized babies, please inquire about my current and upcoming liters.
My rabbits are socialized and pre-spoiled.
Once born, kits will spend their first few weeks in a nest made of hay and mom's belly fur. Once their eyes have opened, they soon start to explore their world. All of my kits are raised in a temp controlled environment to help prevent them from passing away of exposure if they were to fall out of the nest.
Socialization consists of daily handling as well as experiencing a home environment - including barking dogs, vacuuming, voices, music, TV, and more.
Once kits transition to food and stop receiving milk, probiotics and a small amount of Corid will be provided to help prevent enteritis - one of the most prevalent problems in young rabbits, which typically happens shortly after weaning. Enteritis is extremely difficult to treat so preventative measures are the key.
I have a breeding pair of Embark-genetic-health-tested AKC registered purebred Siberian Huskies. See the "Huskies" section. Oliver (Ollie) is from heavily OFA health tested lineage for hips and eyes. Nessie is also from health tested lineage with some show dogs in her background. She's pictured as a young pup above. They'll be paired in 2020 for their first litter.
This breeding will be roughly four years of waiting, planning, and hoping.
Pups will be raised indoors with daily outdoor play time. They'll be socialized around various animals including small dogs. I plan to feed 4health puppy food - a four out of five star food. They'll be de-wormed three times prior to leaving.
Pups will come with their first set of shots, vet check exam and records, limited AKC papers, and a puppy pack which will include: one toy, a handmade blanket, treats, and training tips.
Life time breeder support/contact will be available to all adoptive homes.
Pups will be available under a strict contract including a return agreement should the client end up needing to rehome. The contract will also require adopters to stay in contact with me.
I will require a video home check for anyone interested in a puppy.